FDDI Hyderabad, in collaboration with the Pleach India Foundation (PIF), successfully organized the three-day national seminar and exhibition, “Tales Below the Heels: India Design Language – Footwear Series,” from 28–30 November 2025. The event brought together scholars, designers, artisans, academicians, policy experts, and students to explore India’s rich footwear heritage—from sacred Padukas to ornate Juttis and Mojaris, and iconic Kolhapuris.
The initiative aims to document, revive and globalize India's regional footwear traditions by creating a unified design vocabulary rooted in heritage. It reinforces our commitment to safeguarding traditional crafts, empowering artisans as co-creators, and presenting India's indigenous design language on global platforms.
The seminar was inaugurated by Mr. Jishnu Dev Varma, Hon’ble Governor of Telangana, in the presence of distinguished dignitaries including Mr. Jayesh Ranjan, IAS, Special Chief Secretary (Guest of Honour); Mr. Nikhil Das, Senior Archaeologist, ASI Hyderabad; Dr. Raghavendra Rao H. Kulkarni, Keynote Speaker; Dr. Narasimhugari Tej Lohit Reddy, IAS, Executive Director (ED), FDDI Hyderabad; Dr. E. Sivanagi Reddy and Dr. Tejaswini Yarlagadda from Pleach India Foundation; along with senior faculty and experts from FDDI. The inauguration underscored the importance of integrating traditional craftsmanship with the India Design Language – Footwear initiative and advancing the national vision of “Vocal for Local.”
In addition, a booklet featuring sculptural evidence of Indian footwear, along with the Book of Abstracts, was released by the delegates during the inaugural ceremony.
In his inaugural address, Mr. Jishnu Dev Varma, Hon’ble Governor of Telangana said. “Traditional scholarship often concentrates on sculptures, monuments and iconography, while overlooking the footwear worn by historical figures. We study the posture, ornaments, and the symbolism of our sculptures, but, we rarely pause to notice what lies below the heels,” he said. “This exhibition fills that gap and brings to light a dimension of our cultural heritage that has been hidden in plain sight.”
Chaired by Dr. E. Sivanagi Reddy (Pleach India Foundation) and Dr. Abhirup Chatterjee (FDDI), multiple offline and online sessions were conducted by experienced chairs and moderators from FDDI’s academic fraternity.
Across multiple sessions, the seminar delved into the historical trajectories of Indian footwear, examining references in ancient coins, sculpture, folk literature, and military traditions, while also presenting detailed studies on regional styles such as Mojari, Jutti, Pulla, and Kolhapuri. Experts demonstrated the use of AI and CAD tools for documentation, preservation, and revival of traditional techniques, highlighting sustainable approaches, vegan materials, and the fusion of heritage arts—including Nirmal art—with modern ergonomic design. The discussions further explored the cultural significance of footwear in literature, the symbolism of the Paduka, the legacy of cobbler communities, and its expression in performing arts and storytelling traditions.
The seminar also highlighted contemporary design innovation, showcasing the incorporation of Indian embroidery into modern sneakers, reinterpretations of heritage forms for today’s consumers, and insights from global fashion perspectives.
The online sessions expanded these themes by engaging with ideas of heritage, identity, innovation, and unique narrative traditions such as “The God Who Walks” from Western India, offering participants a deeper understanding of how cultural memory continues to shape present-day footwear design.
A parallel public exhibition and artisan workshop showcased traditional footwear from across India, including Mojari, Jutti, Pulla, Kolhapuri, and Bharwadi Desi Joda. Live demonstrations enabled visitors to interact with master artisans and understand the evolution of Indian footwear as cultural memory, functional necessity, and contemporary inspiration.
A dedicated panel discussion featuring traditional artisans and craftsmen was held on the first day. Master artisans from various footwear traditions shared insights on evolving techniques, historical practices, material innovations, and challenges faced in sustaining craft livelihoods.
On day 2 featured a special panel discussion with Mr. Shriyans Bhandari, Co-founder of Greensole, moderated by Mr. Tarun Oblum, Founder of Oblum Shoes.
The discussion focused on sustainable footwear manufacturing, circular economy models, recycling practices, and integrating Indian craft narratives into global sneaker and footwear markets. Students and faculty gained valuable insights into scaling environmentally responsible innovations while honoring traditional knowledge systems.
On the evening of 28th November 2025, a special cultural session was held featuring Shri. Karthik Hebbar, an acclaimed Carnatic vocalist celebrated for his soulful renditions and scholarly command over classical compositions. He presented a thematic Carnatic musical concert that explored the cultural and spiritual significance of feet and footwear in Indian tradition, offering the audience a unique blend of melody, heritage, and storytelling.
A vibrant fashion show on Day 2 of the Tales Below the Heels conference (29th November 2025) brought India’s rich footwear heritage to life. Students of FDDI Hyderabad showcased five thematic series from the School of Footwear Design & Production, three innovative collections from the School of Leathergoods & Accessories Design, and two heritage-inspired ranges from the School of Fashion Design. Their collective creativity, craftsmanship, and cultural sensitivity made the show a standout highlight of the conference.
“Tales Below the Heels” successfully bridged heritage and modernity, highlighting the depth, symbolism, and regional diversity of Indian footwear. The seminar and exhibition offered an immersive platform that strengthened academic learning, revived traditional knowledge, and inspired future-ready design innovation rooted in India’s cultural legacy.
